Ode to the 2009 Gary Maddox BBQ Challenge
It’s difficult to write notes with barbeque-sauced fingers while sitting in a lawn chair. But last Saturday, there I was, writing with one hand and tasting with the other. And being schooled in the art of Que.
I’d arrived at the 8th annual Garry Maddox BBQ Challenge around 2 pm with my bff Carla. The day was clear and sunny with no threat of the rain that’s plagued weekend activities all summer. The only clouds above Citizens Park Way were filled with the smell of grilled meat.
Almost as soon as I arrived to spend the afternoon with the Carla’s family team, Huck’s Hut, I was offered food. As she offered me part of a sausage on sourdough sandwich, sister-in-law Karen said, “The group right across from us brought it over,” she said, pointing to the Devil’s Delight stand. “It’s really good.” And it was. I shared it with Carla’s brother, Themer. Sharing wares with your rival cooks is a tradition at the event.
Amateur team #11, or Huck’s Hut, entered to represent their catering business in Mt. Airy. Their competition came from South Philly to South Jersey, about 15 teams in all. Pit master Bruce McCall, Carla’s husband, called the shots while manning his BDS (Big Drum Smoker) black, bullet-shaped grills with the help of his brother Fred and son Bruce, Jr. Cooking since 10 am and wearing a Barbeque Guru apron Bruce Sr. gave me the lowdown on how everything works. “First we take up chicken, about 4. Then there’s the Chef’s choice, which can be anything you want, we choose pork, and two rib cook-offs. In the second rib-off you compete with Gary Maddox.”
Barbequing is a lot like fishing – hours of talking, telling tales and sitting around, then short bursts of activity. Carla and I decided to stroll down amateur row and check out the competition. The contest brings out all kinds of groups, some mostly male with lots of beer and many large families with babies in tow. There was a constant arrival of more friends and family, and beer, at all the booths. By late afternoon Huck’s group had grown from six to fifteen
You can tell the professionals from the amateurs by their booths. The restaurants are given 10×10 tent with signage and a serving counter; amateurs are assigned a 10x 20 lot and bring their own tents. The variety was astounding to someone who doesn’t tend to give grills a second glance – from behemoths big and wide enough for an adult to nap on to familiar plain, squat Webers. Participants sported 5-foot tall cookers shaped like safes – from which not a hint of smoke escaped. They were big, black and solid with gleaming temperature gauges. There was a definite backyard barbeque/street fair vibe as we walked along the amateur route. Cooks mingled with their supporters and the odd passerby, chatting and giving/ getting advice.
As we came to the statue of Connie “Mr. Baseball” Mack, we crossed over to the other side – the realm of corporate sponsors and restaurant/catering booths. Jones, Buddakan and Carolina Blue were a few of the restaurants readying for the coming crowds. WOGL (98.1), one of the radio sponsors, provided the booming music that waited for Phillies fans to arrive before the scheduled 7 pm game with the Marlins. “They usually give out free ice cream, “Carla said, pointing to the Turkey Hill booth. “We’ll have to make sure to come back later.” Also appearing later – classic car display, Hall of Fame exhibit and a chance to win an autographed Chase Utley bat.
Fans began coming through well before the 4 pm public opening. Around 3, Maddox, the former Phillies centerfielder, began personally visiting each and every competitor on amateur row to shake hands, wish them well and take photos. The affair benefits the Youth Golf & Academics program which was founded by Maddox for kids in grades k-8 from troubled neighborhoods. Greg “The Bull” Luzinski, another home-town hero and Philly favorite, also made an appearance to sign autographs for the fans.
I began to see runners begin carrying white boxes with their entries up to the judges’ tent near the Mack statue around 3:55. At 4 pm I jogged along with Bruce Jr. as he half-ran to make it there on time. There’s a distinction between professionals and amateurs when judging the first three round. But in the last round the single overall score wins. Top prize for the final rib challenge – a trip to the 2009 World Series and bragging rights. As we made our way to the tent, fans started streaming in, lining up to buy $4.00 tasting tickets and bopping to the music. These tickets were no good on the amateur side, where sampling isn’t allowed. Now, I’m not naming names but this rule was frequently broken by many. The recipients, grateful fans, drawn by the intense smells and delectable looking cuts of steaming meat, practically salivated. All were very appreciative.
A sighting of broadcast maven Trudy Haynes, pretty in pink, drew a crowd. Haynes was there to promote her new channel 57 television show. While she talked with the folks at Secret Sauce, their neighbors, Devil’s Delight, began tossing minor insults, trying to get attention. A channel 3 cameraman stopped by Huck’s to get some film for their evening news. “I need to get someone eating,” he said. Bruce Jr. promptly picked up a rib and began gnawing, remarking on how good it was while brother Fred gave a rib-slicing demonstration.. “I don’t know what I was saying, just making stuff up, but I think I sounded good” he said confidently afterward. They made great television and were thanked profusely by the cameraman.
A member of Camden’s Urban Burners continually came over to taunt the McCalls. “I came here for ya’ll to show me how to light my grill,” was one of the things he would say. “Awww, you know we have the winner. Just give us the trophy NOW!” demanded Bruce Jr. The teasing went on all day.
Judgings at 4, 4:30, 5 and 5:30 didn’t allow much time to get the next entry together. Fred, on rib-slicing duty, checked to make sure he knew the minimum amount allowed went up (you can always send up more) , picking the perfect specimens. “I’m not too good with that part,” said Bruce, gladly handing the reins over to his brother’s expertise. The dark, smoky meats contrasted nicely on beds of lettuce, garnished with parsley. Each entry was photographed from many angles for the <a href=”www.HucksHut.com”>website</a> before leaving the booth.
Delayed judging caused the crowd to still be there at 7, listening to the whoops and cheers of the fans, now inside the stadium, for the start of the game. True to form, while radio station employees called out raffle winners, rain clouds threatened. We waited anxiously for the barbeque results.
Then it was time. As the winners were announced, group after group hollered when their names were called, accepted their trophies and proudly posed with Maddox and Philly restauranteur Stephen Starr. Huck’s delicious, fall-off-the-bone, ribs, pork and chicken didn’t win the trophy this year. But the Phillies spent time vying for their trophy too. And, last year, they got it.
***Special thanks to Patricia Banks, our guest columnist, and former assistant editor for the Philadelphia Inquirer for penning this article.***

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